Description
Reyneke Biodynamic Chenin Blanc '23
This vibrant white wine is a pure expression of 100% Chenin Blanc, sourced exclusively from the Reyneke estate’s oldest vines planted in 1974 and 1979. These "wise old gurus" of the vineyard are rooted in the decomposed granite soils of the Polkadraai Hills in Stellenbosch, a terroir renowned for producing wines of intense minerality and focus. The 2023 vintage was defined by a cool growing season punctuated by early summer heat, resulting in a harvest that balances ripe fruit concentration with an electric, nerve-tingling acidity. The maritime influence from nearby False Bay keeps the vines refreshed, ensuring the grapes retain their natural zest and vitality.
In the glass, the wine presents a brilliant, clarity-filled golden hue that hints at its textural depth. The nose is complex and inviting, offering a bouquet of quince, white pear, and lemon zest, interwoven with delicate floral notes of honeysuckle and a distinct, wet-stone minerality often described as petrichor. On the palate, this medium-bodied, dry Chenin Blanc delivers a sophisticated array of flavors, including crisp apple, orange pith, and a touch of tropical mango stone. The texture is the star here; a creamy, weighted mouthfeel derived from lees aging balances the wine’s zinging acidity, leading to a finish that is long, saline, and refreshing.
Reyneke is celebrated as South Africa’s first Demeter-certified biodynamic farm, and this wine is a testament to their philosophy of working in harmony with nature. The winemaking is low-intervention, utilizing whole-bunch pressing and spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts. The wine was aged for 10 months on its gross lees in a combination of older oak barrels and large foudres. This extended lees contact imparts a lovely savory complexity and breadth without masking the fruit with overt oakiness, allowing the granite terroir to shine through clearly.
Critics have heaped praise on this release, with the wine earning a stellar 94 points from Tim Atkin MW and 93 points from Vinous, cementing its status as a high-value collectible in its class. For food pairings, this Chenin Blanc is incredibly versatile with American cuisine. It pairs beautifully with Maryland crab cakes served with a spicy remoulade, where the wine's texture stands up to the crab while the acidity cuts through the frying oil. Alternatively, try it with a roast chicken and cornbread stuffing; the savory lees notes in the wine will complement the herbs and richness of the dish perfectly.
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