Closerie des Bories, Francs Cotes de Bordeaux 2018

Description

Closerie des Bories, Francs Cotes de Bordeaux 2018

This approachable yet sophisticated red serves as the second wine of the renowned Château Puygueraud, a property that has single-handedly elevated the reputation of the Francs Côtes de Bordeaux appellation. Crafted by the Thienpont family—Bordeaux royalty known for iconic Right Bank estates like Vieux Château Certan and Le Pin—this cuvée is a pure expression of 100% Merlot. Unlike its big brother, which often includes Cabernet Franc and Malbec, Closerie des Bories focuses entirely on the plush, generous nature of Merlot, offering a "baby Right Bank" experience that delivers pedigree without the premium price tag.

The 2018 vintage in Bordeaux was a year of dramatic contrasts, characterized by a wet spring followed by a gloriously warm and dry summer. This "tale of two seasons" allowed the vines to produce small, concentrated berries with thick skins, resulting in wines of immense power and depth that still retain vibrant acidity. The fruit for this wine is grown on the estate's high-elevation clay-limestone soils (argilo-calcaire) atop a bedrock of asteriated limestone. This specific terroir, similar to the best plateaus of Saint-Émilion, imparts a distinct mineral backbone and structural elegance that prevents the ripe 2018 fruit from feeling heavy or jammy.

In the glass, the wine displays a deep, brooding ruby hue with a bright magenta rim, indicating its youthful energy and concentration. The nose opens with a delightful burst of primary fruit, featuring generous aromas of ripe black cherry, wild plum, and crushed blackcurrants. As it breathes, complex secondary notes emerge, revealing layers of spiced milk chocolate, dried herbs, and a subtle hint of black tea. On the palate, this is a medium-bodied, dry red that perfectly balances modern fruit-forward deliciousness with classic French structure. The texture is notably smooth, supported by velvety, silky tannins that coat the mouth without astringency. Flavors of dark berries and savory earth dominate the mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish marked by a refreshing touch of white pepper and graphite.

Winemaking is overseen by Nicolas Thienpont, whose philosophy centers on sustainable farming and minimal intervention to let the terroir shine. The vineyard management includes traditional light ploughing and the planting of cereal cover crops between rows to maintain soil health and biodiversity. Following a careful manual harvest, the wine is fermented in stainless steel to preserve fruit purity before maturing for approximately 12 months in French oak barrels. This aging regimen is judicious, using mostly used oak to soften the wine and integrate its components without overpowering the vibrant Merlot fruit with excessive toast or vanilla flavors.

This wine's ripe fruit and approachable structure make it a versatile partner for American cuisine. It pairs beautifully with a classic grilled cheeseburger, where the wine's juicy acidity cuts through the richness of the beef and melted cheddar while the fruit complements the char. For a slow-cooked option, try it with BBQ pork sliders; the wine's subtle spice and herbal notes will play perfectly off the smoky sweetness of the barbecue sauce. While specific scores for this second label are often subsumed by the Grand Vin, the Thienpont family's wines consistently garner high praise from critics like Wine Enthusiast and James Suckling, making this an exceptional value for those seeking top-tier Bordeaux craftsmanship at an everyday price.