Description
Stolpman Vineyards "Uni" ‘23 is a textural tour de force that defies standard categorization, offering a hedonistic experience inspired by the delicacy it is named after: sea urchin. While previous vintages were Roussanne-dominant, the 2023 release marks a shift in composition, comprising 60% Chardonnay and 40% Roussanne. Despite the Chardonnay majority, the Roussanne’s rich, unctuous character asserts itself comfortably, creating a wine that balances decadent weight with high-toned energy.
The 2023 growing season in the Ballard Canyon AVA was defined by a wet winter and a cool, extended spring, delaying bud break and allowing for a long, slow ripening period. This "golden year" vintage saw the Chardonnay harvested in late September to preserve zesty acidity, while the Roussanne hung on the vines until early November, developing immense concentration and phenolic depth. Rooted in the estate’s limestone soils, the dry-farmed vines produced fruit with a distinct saline minerality that serves as the wine's backbone.
In the glass, the wine pours a deep, hazy golden-straw hue, a visual testament to its unfiltered nature and skin contact. The nose is explosive and exotic, leading with aromas of honeysuckle, beeswax, and golden pineapple, layered with notes of crushed seashell and a hint of tangerine zest. On the palate, this dry, medium-bodied wine delivers the "gourmet smoothie" texture Stolpman is famous for—a coating, viscous mouthfeel that feels luxurious without being heavy. Flavors of yellow mango, Asian pear, and kumquat wash over the tongue, lifted by a chalky minerality and a savory, saline edge that mimics the ocean breeze. The finish is persistent and vibrant, with the Chardonnay’s acidity cutting through the richness to leave a refreshing, clean impression.
Stolpman’s commitment to organic and regenerative farming shines through in this low-intervention wine. The grapes were harvested by hand, with the fruit undergoing whole-cluster crushing and a critical 24-hour period of skin contact to extract texture and golden color. Fermentation occurred spontaneously with native yeast in neutral 500-liter French oak puncheons, where the wine aged on its lees for nine months without racking. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, it retains every ounce of its natural character.
Given its name and saline profile, this wine is the ultimate match for fresh seafood. Pair it with a Connecticut-style lobster roll, where the wine’s creamy texture mirrors the buttered lobster while cutting the richness. Alternatively, serve it alongside a tray of fresh Santa Barbara sea urchin (uni) on crispy rice, or a grilled halibut topped with lemon-caper butter.
Critics have praised this vintage's balance of opulence and precision, with Decanter awarding it 92 points and describing it as "simultaneously indulgent and refined." It represents exceptional value for a wine of such distinct personality and artisanal craftsmanship.
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