Description
Stolpman Vineyards L'Avion 2021
This benchmark white wine is a meticulously crafted blend of 93% Roussanne and 7% Chardonnay, sourced exclusively from the estate's oldest plantings. The Roussanne comes from Blocks 4 and 7, planted in 1999 and 2000 respectively, while the Chardonnay hails from Block 10. The name "L'Avion" (The Plane) pays homage to the vineyard site, which sits atop a flat limestone plateau that was once used as a landing strip for a local cattle rancher in the 1930s. The label design cleverly mimics the runway lanes that still run lengthwise along the Roussanne rows.
The 2021 vintage in Ballard Canyon was defined by a cold spring and a moderate summer devoid of significant heat spikes, allowing for an extended hang time. Harvest for this bottling did not occur until early November, a "wait out" strategy that allowed the grapes to achieve maximum physiological ripeness while retaining vital acidity. The vineyard's limestone soils and the relentless high winds from the Pacific Ocean are critical terroir factors here; they moderate the ripening process and prevent mold, enabling the team to dry-farm these vines under Certified Organic and Biodynamic protocols.
In the glass, the wine presents a shimmering, deep yellow-gold hue, hinting at its viscosity. The nose is opulent and complex, offering rich aromas of macadamia nut, toasted hazelnut, and warm pecan pie, layered with notes of honeysuckle, yellow roses, and ripe tropical fruits like pineapple and seared banana. Savory undertones of corn masa and a distinct stony minerality ground the exuberant fruit. On the palate, this is a decidedly full-bodied and dry wine, possessing a luxurious, oily texture that coats the mouth. Flavors of lemon curd, baked apple, and sea-salt caramel are balanced by a spine of fresh acidity that keeps the finish long, clean, and vibrant.
The winemaking behind L'Avion is as unique as its terroir. The estate's full-time crew, La Cuadrilla, performs a labor-intensive technique where every grape cluster is hand-rotated 180 degrees late in the season. This ensures the fruit receives even sun exposure, tanning the skins to a "russet" (Rousse) color that gives the varietal its name and enhances flavor concentration. In the cellar, the wine undergoes native fermentation in 100% new 500L French Ermitage puncheons. It is then racked to a mix of 60% new and 40% neutral puncheons for a total of 19 months of barrel aging, a regimen that integrates the oak seamlessly with the wine's natural richness.
This wine's weight and texture make it an exceptional partner for rich American cuisine. It pairs beautifully with a butter-poached Maine lobster or Dungeness crab cakes, where the wine's creamy mouthfeel mirrors the sweetness of the shellfish. Alternatively, try it with a roasted pork chop topped with apple compote; the savory nuttiness of the wine complements the pork while the fruit notes bridge to the apples.
Critics have responded enthusiastically to the 2021 vintage, with both Vinous and Wine Enthusiast awarding it 93 points, the latter designating it a "Cellar Selection." It is widely considered one of the premier examples of Roussanne produced in the United States, offering a level of complexity and age-worthiness that rivals top white Rhone bottlings at a fraction of the price.
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