Description
Sartarelli “Tralivio” Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore 2021
This exceptional white wine is a pure expression of 100% Verdicchio, the noble grape variety that defines the Marche region of central Italy. Sartarelli is a dedicated specialist, focusing exclusively on Verdicchio to showcase its myriad nuances. The fruit for "Tralivio" is sourced specifically from the estate’s oldest historical vineyard plots, selecting the most mature vines to ensure depth and complexity. Unlike many modern whites that rely on international blending partners, this bottling remains true to its heritage, offering a singular and unadulterated interpretation of the Castelli di Jesi appellation.
The 2021 vintage in Marche was characterized by a warm and dry growing season, resulting in healthy fruit with excellent concentration. Despite the heat, the region's unique topography—specifically the calcareous clay soils of the hillside vineyards—allowed the vines to retain vital freshness. The "Tralivio" vineyard sites benefit from good drainage and a mineral-rich composition, which imparts a structural backbone to the ripe fruit character of the vintage. The combination of the warm season and these specific terroir elements yielded a wine that balances solar richness with cool, saline tension.
In the glass, the wine presents a brilliant, intense straw yellow hue with subtle greenish reflections that hint at its vibrancy. The nose is complex and evolving, opening with distinct aromas of acacia flowers, linden, and broom, followed by ripe notes of apricot, Meyer lemon, and a touch of anise. Underlying these primary scents is a crushed-stone minerality and the variety's signature hint of green almond. On the palate, this is a dry, medium-bodied wine with a sophisticated texture that feels almost silky. It delivers a concentrated core of stone fruit and citrus zest, supported by a refreshing, zesty acidity. The finish is remarkably long and savory, concluding with a classic bitter almond note and a saline kick that cleanses the palate.
Sartarelli employs sustainable farming practices, emphasizing a "zero residue" philosophy to protect both the environment and the purity of the fruit. In the winery, the approach is focused on preserving the grape's natural characteristics. The grapes undergo a soft pressing, and fermentation takes place exclusively in stainless steel tanks to maintain aromatic clarity. There is no oak aging; instead, the wine matures on its fine lees (spent yeast cells) for a prolonged period, often six months or more. This extended lees contact enriches the mouthfeel, giving the wine its creamy texture and structural longevity without masking the fruit with wood spices.
For food pairings, this Verdicchio is incredibly versatile but shines with American coastal cuisine. It pairs beautifully with Maryland-style crab cakes, where the wine's zesty acidity cuts through the richness of the crab and remoulade while its texture matches the weight of the dish. Alternatively, try it with a classic roast chicken seasoned with lemon and herbs; the savory herbal notes in the wine will echo the seasoning, and the saline finish will lift the flavors of the poultry. It would also be an excellent companion to pan-seared scallops served over a corn purée, highlighting the wine's ability to balance sweetness and salinity.
The 2021 "Tralivio" has garnered significant praise from critics, notably achieving a score of 92 points from Vinous. Antonio Galloni’s team praised it for offering "tremendous depth," highlighting its value proposition in the world of fine white wines. It represents a sophisticated, age-worthy Italian white that delivers the complexity often found in much more expensive bottles, making it a smart choice for both collectors and casual enthusiasts.
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