Description

Roccolo Grassi Amarone 2016

This commanding wine is a meticulously crafted blend of 60% Corvina, 20% Corvinone, 15% Rondinella, and 5% Croatina. Sourced exclusively from the estate's namesake vineyard, the inclusion of Croatina adds a distinctive spicy depth that sets this bottling apart from more traditional formulations. The vines, averaging over 30 years of age, are trained on pergolas to ensure optimal airflow and sun exposure, critical for the development of the complex phenolic compounds required for top-tier Amarone.

The 2016 vintage in Valpolicella is widely regarded as a "total knockout," characterized by a balanced growing season that allowed for a long, steady maturation. The Roccolo Grassi estate is situated in Mezzane di Sotto on the eastern side of the region, where the terroir is defined by volcanic basalt soils. This unique geological profile, combined with a southeasterly exposure and elevations around 200-250 meters, imbues the wine with a distinct mineral backbone and freshness that defies the heaviness often associated with the style.

In the glass, the wine presents a deep, brooding ruby-garnet color with high viscosity that stains the sides of the vessel. The nose is explosive and exotic; immediate notes of macerated black cherries and plums are lifted by a surprising and elegant whiff of tangerine peel and rose petals. As it opens, tertiary layers of tobacco, dark chocolate, graphite, and autumnal spices like cinnamon and clove emerge. On the palate, this is a full-bodied and dry wine (with only ~2 g/L of residual sugar), showcasing a masterful balance between power and elegance. The texture is velvety, supported by sweet, fine-grained tannins and a vibrant acidity that keeps the finish incredibly long, fresh, and focused, lingering with flavors of blackberry and anise.

Proprietor Marco Sartori is a perfectionist who champions sustainable farming and low yields to ensure quality. For the 2016 vintage, the grapes underwent a drying period (appassimento) in naturally ventilated rooms until early December, concentrating sugars and flavors. Following a cold maceration and fermentation in stainless steel, the wine was aged for 26 months primarily in French oak barriques (50% new), though this vintage marked a shift toward including some large Slavonian oak casks to preserve fruit purity. The wine then rested for an additional 24 months in the bottle before release.

To match the wine's intensity and structure, pair it with rich, protein-heavy American classics. A hickory-smoked beef brisket with a peppercorn rub works exceptionally well; the wine's smoky nuances and spice mirror the bark of the meat, while the acidity cuts through the rendered fat. Alternatively, serve this with a grilled Tomahawk ribeye topped with a blue cheese compound butter. The tannins in the wine will bind with the proteins in the steak, softening the mouthfeel while the savory cheese highlights the Amarone's dark fruit notes.

Critics have lavished praise on this vintage, with Vinous awarding it a stunning 97 points, describing it as "sexy and exotic" and a "total knockout." It consistently outperforms its price point, offering a level of complexity and longevity that rivals far more expensive bottlings from legendary producers like Quintarelli or Dal Forno, making it an exceptional value for collectors of high-end Italian reds.