Description

Le Pianelle, Al Posto dei Fiori Rosato Costa Della Sesia 2023

This distinctively structured rosé, whose name translates to "Instead of Flowers," is a sophisticated expression of Alto Piemonte's unique terroir. The 2023 vintage is a blend dominated by the region's noble grape, comprising approximately 95-97% Nebbiolo, with the remaining balance consisting of the indigenous varieties Vespolina and Croatina. Sourced from the Costa della Sesia DOC, the vineyards are situated in Villa del Bosco at elevations ranging from 300 to 450 meters. The vines here are rooted in ancient, acidic soils of volcanic porphyry sand, which impart a signature saline minerality to the wine. The 2023 growing season was characterized by a wet spring followed by a warm summer, necessitating careful viticulture, but the late harvest in early October allowed the Nebbiolo to achieve full phenolic ripeness while retaining the electric acidity for which this alpine region is famous.

In the glass, the Al Posto dei Fiori presents a luminous, deep pink hue that leans toward light ruby, signaling its serious nature. The nose is highly aromatic and complex, offering an enchanting bouquet of wild red cherries, blood orange peel, and almond, interwoven with floral high notes of crushed violets and dried roses. On the palate, this is a dry, medium-bodied rosé that drinks with the weight and presence of a light red wine. It delivers a vibrant core of sour cherry, pomegranate, and red currant flavors, driven by a zesty, "jet-ski" acidity that rushes across the tongue. The finish is long and savory, marked by a distinct crushed-seashell salinity and a refreshing hint of spritz that amplifies the wine's energy and thirst-quenching qualities.

The winemaking at Le Pianelle is a blend of artisanal tradition and precise technique, overseen by the talented Cristiano Garella. The estate employs organic farming practices (though uncertified) to protect the biodiversity of their volcanic soils. For this cuvée, the Nebbiolo grapes undergo a short maceration followed by a gentle pressing to extract color and texture without aggressive tannins. The Vespolina and Croatina components are typically introduced via the saignée method from red wine tanks, adding depth and spice. Fermentation occurs primarily (90%) in stainless steel tanks to preserve the purity of the fruit, while the remaining 10% is fermented and aged in used oak barriques, a technique that contributes a subtle creaminess and textural breadth to the final blend.

Given its robust structure and savory edge, this wine is an exceptional partner for hearty American cuisine. It would be a knockout pairing with a classic Lowcountry shrimp boil; the wine’s intense acidity cuts through the richness of the corn and sausage, while its herbal undertones complement the Old Bay seasoning. Alternatively, try it with a grilled cedar-plank salmon glazed with maple and mustard, where the wine's weight matches the fish's oiliness and its red fruit notes bridge the gap to the glaze. Critical reception for the 2023 vintage has been stellar, with Vinous awarding it a remarkable 93 points, describing it as "flat-out delicious" and "one of the most distinctive rosés out of Italy." Despite this high praise and pedigree, it remains a relatively affordable luxury in its class, offering the complexity of a fine Nebbiolo at a fraction of the price of a Barolo.