Description

Antiquum Alium Pinot Gris 2023 is a distinctive and thought-provoking expression of 100% Pinot Gris that transcends the typical boundaries of the varietal. Sourced exclusively from Antiquum Farm's estate vineyard in the southern Willamette Valley, this wine reflects a specific selection that highlights the more savory and textured capabilities of the grape. The 2023 growing season in the Willamette Valley was characterized by a warm, dry summer and a compressed harvest, resulting in fruit with intense concentration and ripe flavors, while the cool nights at the estate's high elevation (nearly 800 feet) preserved the vital acidity necessary for balance. Rooted in Bellpine soils—a shallow, ancient marine sedimentary type—the dry-farmed vines struggle to produce small, flavor-packed berries that translate the site's unique geology into the glass.

In the glass, the wine presents a striking appearance, pouring a pale straw hue with a distinct, shimmering hint of copper—a hallmark of the Pinot Gris grape's naturally pigmented skins. The nose is complex and evolving, offering a core of ripe Bartlett pear, honeydew melon, and white peach, layered with intriguing secondary notes of chamomile, dried hay, and a touch of beeswax. True to its name "Alium," there is a subtle, savory herbal undercurrent that adds depth to the bouquet. On the palate, this medium-bodied wine is technically dry but texturally rich, boasting a mouth-filling viscosity derived from extended lees contact. Flavors of quince, lemon zest, and spiced apple dance across the tongue, supported by a spine of lively acidity. The finish is long, resonant, and refreshing, marked by a profound saline minerality and a crushed gravel earthiness that speaks directly to its marine soil origins.

The profound character of this wine is a direct result of Antiquum Farm's revolutionary "Grazing-Based Viticulture." In this regenerative farming model, flocks of sheep, geese, and chickens roam the vineyard year-round, grazing on cover crops and naturally fertilizing the soil, thereby eliminating the need for synthetic inputs or composts. This creates a self-sustaining ecosystem that amplifies the site's terroir. In the cellar, the winemaking is low-intervention to preserve this authenticity; the fruit undergoes whole-cluster pressing and spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts in stainless steel tanks. The wine is then aged on its lees to enhance texture before being bottled unfined and unfiltered, ensuring every nuance of flavor remains intact.

This Pinot Gris is a gastronomic heavyweight, capable of pairing with a wide range of dishes. It pairs beautifully with pan-seared scallops served with a brown butter and sage sauce, where the wine's saline minerality mirrors the seafood while its acidity cuts through the rich butter. For a comforting main course, try it with a simple roasted chicken with root vegetables; the wine's savory, herbal notes will complement the earthy flavors of the dish perfectly. Alternatively, a grilled pork chop with an apple-fennel slaw would highlight the wine's fruit and textural weight. While specific scores for the 2023 vintage are still forthcoming, Antiquum Farm's Pinot Gris bottlings consistently garner high praise from critics and enthusiasts alike, often punching well above their weight class in terms of complexity and delivering a quality comparable to much more expensive premier cru white Burgundies.