Description

Il Gelsomoro Marche Rosso 2018

This distinctive artisanal red is a carefully composed blend of 60% Montepulciano, 30% Sangiovese, and 10% Lacrima, cultivated in the clay-limestone soils of Morro d’Alba within Italy's Marche region. The estate, Il Gelso Moro, is guided by the philosophy of Silvia Giorgetti, who employs certified organic farming and biodynamic preparations to maintain a thriving vineyard ecosystem. The 2018 vintage in Marche was marked by a warm growing season that allowed for a slightly later harvest than usual, ensuring the grapes achieved optimal phenolic ripeness while preserving essential acidity. This climatic balance resulted in a wine that marries the structural power of Montepulciano with the aromatic finesse of Lacrima.

In the glass, the wine displays a deep, opaque ruby hue with violet highlights, indicative of its concentration and youth. The nose is immediately arresting, dominated by the hallmark floral aromatics of the Lacrima grape—specifically crushed violets and dried rose petals—which lift the heavier dark fruit notes of the blend. As the wine breathes, rich layers of black cherry, wild blackberry, and damson plum emerge, underpinned by complex secondary aromas of leather, cured tobacco, and a hint of graphite. There is a distinct earthy spiciness, reminiscent of clove and black pepper, which adds intrigue to the bouquet.

On the palate, Il Gelsomoro Marche Rosso 2018 is dry and full-bodied, offering a dense core of dark fruit flavors that coat the mouth. The texture is defined by velvety, well-polymerized tannins that provide significant structure without aggression. A vibrant streak of acidity keeps the palate fresh, balancing the wine's weight and leading into a long, savory finish marked by notes of licorice and balsamic herbs. The unique character of this wine is shaped by its vinification: while the Montepulciano and Sangiovese are aged in steel and cement to retain fruit purity, the Lacrima component is matured in wooden barrels for approximately 18 months, imparting subtle oxidative complexity and softening its intense aromatic profile. The wine undergoes spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts and is bottled with minimal sulfur, preserving its raw, authentic expression of terroir.

While specific ratings from major American critics for the 2018 vintage are not widely published, previous vintages have garnered high praise from the community, with the 2015 vintage scoring 92 points on CellarTracker for its depth and polish. This suggests the 2018 is a high-value offering that punches well above its price point in the artisanal Italian red category. For food pairings, this wine requires robust, savory dishes to match its intensity. It pairs exceptionally well with a smoked beef brisket, where the wine's peppery notes complement the bark and its acidity cuts through the rendered fat. Alternatively, try it with a grilled porterhouse steak topped with blue cheese butter; the wine's floral and tannic profile will stand up beautifully to the funk of the cheese and the char of the meat.