Description

Clos Figueras, Clos Figueres Priorat Red 2018

This flagship bottling from the Christopher Cannan family is a quintessential expression of the Gratallops terroir, crafted from a blend dominated by old-vine Garnacha (Grenache) and Cariñena (Carignan). These two varietals make up the majority of the composition, sourced from vines ranging between 60 to 80 years of age, while smaller percentages of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Monastrell (Mourvèdre) add structural complexity and depth. The fruit is hand-harvested from the estate's steep, terraced vineyards, which are famous for their llicorella (black slate) soils. These heat-retaining stones force roots to dig deep for water, imparting a distinct mineral backbone that defines the wine's character.

The 2018 vintage in Priorat was characterized by a cooler and wetter growing season than the norm, often described as having an "Atlantic" influence. This climatic shift allowed for a slow, extended ripening period that preserved exceptional acidity and botanical aromatics. The result is a wine that balances the region's inherent power with a surprising degree of elegance and freshness, avoiding the over-ripe jamminess sometimes found in hotter years. The cool vintage conditions have gifted this red with a vibrancy that promises excellent longevity in the cellar.

In the glass, the wine presents a deep, opaque ruby core with violet highlights, demonstrating high viscosity. The nose is intense and complex, offering a bouquet of ripe blackberries, dark plums, and crushed violets, interwoven with savory notes of wild Mediterranean herbs (thyme and lavender), graphite, and wet stone. On the palate, this is a full-bodied, dry red with a luxurious, velvety texture. The flavor profile expands to include cassis, black olive tapenade, and dark chocolate, supported by firm but fine-grained tannins. The finish is remarkably long and persistent, echoing with notes of sweet spice and slate minerality.

The winemaking at Clos Figueras is rooted in a philosophy of minimal intervention and environmental stewardship, with the estate practicing certified organic farming and incorporating biodynamic principles. Fermentation takes place in open-top 300- and 500-liter French oak barrels to allow for gentle extraction. The wine is then aged for approximately 14 to 16 months in new and second-year French oak casks. This regimen integrates the oak tannins seamlessly, adding a subtle toasty framework without masking the purity of the old-vine fruit.

This wine's bold structure and high acidity make it an ideal companion for rich, protein-heavy dishes. It pairs beautifully with a char-grilled ribeye steak topped with rosemary butter, where the wine's tannins cut through the marbling while the herbal notes mirror the seasoning. For a more American-leaning option, try it with slow-smoked Texas beef brisket; the smoky, peppery bark of the meat complements the wine's llicorella minerality and dark fruit profile perfectly.

Critics have lauded the 2018 release for its precision and balance. Robert Parker's Wine Advocate awarded it an impressive 95 points, praising its "cleanliness and precision," while James Suckling gave it 94 points, highlighting its supple texture and floral aromatics. Given its pedigree, old-vine provenance, and critical acclaim, it remains a compelling value compared to other top-tier wines from the Priorat DOQ.