Description
Catena Alta Malbec Historic Rows '18 represents the pinnacle of high-altitude viticulture from the family that revolutionized Argentine wine. This 100% Malbec is an assemblage of the Catena family's most prized "Historic Rows" located in five distinct vineyards: Angélica (3,018 ft), La Pirámide (3,116 ft), Nicasia (3,592 ft), Angélica Sur (3,608 ft), and the dizzying Adrianna vineyard (4,757 ft). These specific block selections, planted with proprietary "Catena Cuttings," deliver a wine of singular complexity that blends the richness of the lower altitudes with the aromatic intensity and structure of the extreme heights.
The 2018 vintage was celebrated locally as "El Año Mendocino" (The Mendoza Year), characterized by a classic dry, cool, and sunny growing season. Following two smaller, difficult vintages, 2018 offered optimal conditions with low rainfall and cool temperatures extending from February through April. This allowed for slow, even ripening that preserved bright natural acidity while developing fully ripe polyphenols. The diverse soil profiles—ranging from the loamy clay of Angélica to the alluvial gravel and limestone of Adrianna—impart a distinct minerality and layered depth to the final blend.
In the glass, the wine pours an opaque, deep violet color with indigo highlights. The nose is expressive and floral, offering intense aromas of ripe blackberries, cassis, and plums, layered with elegant notes of crushed violets, lavender, and a hint of leather. Secondary nuances of mocha, vanilla bean, and sweet tobacco emerge from the oak aging. On the palate, this is a full-bodied, dry wine defined by a lush, silky texture and fine-grained tannins. Flavors of concentrated blackcurrant and dark cherry are interwoven with savory herbs, graphite, and a touch of black pepper. The finish is exceptionally long and fresh, driven by a vibrant acidity that lifts the dense fruit profile.
Catena's winemaking approach is meticulous and minimal interventionist. The fruit undergoes whole berry fermentation using wild yeasts in small-format bins and barrels (225-500 liters) to maximize aromatic extraction and texture. Individual vineyard lots are vinified separately before blending. The wine is aged for 18 months in French oak barrels. A key technique employed is active battonage (lees stirring), which protects the wine from oxidation, reduces the need for sulfur dioxide, and contributes to the wine's creamy, supple mouthfeel.
This structured Malbec calls for rich, protein-driven dishes. It pairs exceptionally well with a charcoal-grilled ribeye steak, where the wine's tannins cut through the marbling while echoing the char of the meat. For a distinctly American pairing, try it with slow-smoked beef brisket; the wine's dark fruit and peppery spice complement the smoky bark and savory rub perfectly. Alternatively, a roasted leg of lamb with rosemary and garlic highlights the wine's inherent herbal and savory characteristics.
Critics have widely praised this vintage for its balance and elegance. James Suckling awarded it a massive 95 points, calling it "subtle and sophisticated," while Robert Parker's Wine Advocate gave it 93 points, noting its evolution and grip. Despite its world-class pedigree and critical acclaim, it remains a remarkable value in the luxury wine market, offering a Grand Cru-level experience at a fraction of the price of its French or Californian counterparts.
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