Description
Birichino Mokelumne River Cinsault "Vignes Centenaires" '23
This extraordinary wine is a pure expression of California history, crafted from 100% Cinsault sourced exclusively from the legendary Bechthold Vineyard. Planted in 1886, these gnarly, own-rooted, dry-farmed vines in the Mokelumne River AVA constitute the oldest producing Cinsault vineyard in the world. The 2023 vintage was characterized by a cooler, extended growing season, allowing for a long "hang time" that developed deep flavor complexity while preserving electric acidity. Rooted in deep, fine sandy loam soils and cooled by evening breezes from the Sacramento River Delta, the terroir imparts a distinct sense of place and ethereal elegance.
In the glass, the wine reveals a vibrant, light ruby hue that hints at its energetic personality. The nose is an intoxicating bouquet of delicate florals, offering aromas of rose petals, hibiscus, and crushed violets that dance with bright red fruits like tart strawberry, cranberry, and pomegranate. On the palate, this dry, light-bodied red is silky and fresh yet surprisingly complex, delivering flavors of juicy red currants and cherries layered with a whisper of savory spice and a distinct mineral core. The structure is defined by super-fine, stony tannins and crisp acidity, leading to a finish that is refreshingly clean and persistent.
Winemakers Alex Krause and John Locke maintain a minimal intervention philosophy to let these ancient vines shine. The organically farmed grapes are fermented with native yeasts, and uniquely for this cuvée, a portion of juice is bled off (saignée) to increase concentration without adding weight. Aged for approximately 10 months in neutral French oak barrels, the wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered. Its bright acidity and red fruit profile make it a versatile companion for food; it pairs beautifully with a classic American cheeseburger, cutting effortlessly through the richness, or grilled salmon with a dill and yogurt sauce to complement the wine's herbal notes. Wine Advocate awarded this vintage a stellar 94 points, praising its "silky and lively" character and "powerful, stony tannins," marking it as an incredible value for such a historic pedigree.
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